Three of the seven Hungarian chieftains whose tribes formed present-day Hungary, Fisherman’s Bastions

Castle Hill

High up on a hill in Buda, overlooking the city of Pest across the Danube, lies the Castle Hill area of Budapest. This historic site has seen numerous sieges and bloody battles throughout its long history, which are echoed in its cobbled streets and ancient buildings.

Some of these historic sites include Matthias Church with its ornate tiled roof, the fairytale-esque terraces of the Fisherman’s Bastions, the Hungarian National Gallery, and the Budapest History Museum to name a few. However, the largest and most imposing building on the Hill is by far Buda Castle, a thirteenth-century palace that homed numerous Hungarian Kings over the centuries. Originally built to defend the population from the invading Mongols in 1265, it underwent significant transformation in the 15th century under King Matthias of Hungary. Following the Ottoman invasion in the 16th century, the castle fell into disrepair and ruin but was rebuilt in the 17th century under the Habsburg Empire after the defeat of the Turks. The castle was then bombed to near ruin in World War II when it became the last stronghold of the Nazis against the advancing Russian army, but the castle was rebuilt yet again after the war ended.

Aside from the above-ground palace, a labyrinth of ancient tunnels runs under Buda Castle. These tunnels were formed by the geothermal waters that course under Budapest and have been used as long as people existed in the area. Their various uses included a shelter and a hospital, the site of an Ottoman harem, as well as a prison and torture chamber for enemies of the Kings of old.

Dracula and the Labyrinth

Dracula is not just a mythical monster that feeds off the blood of the living, the tales of Dracula have been whispered throughout the centuries and are based on a 15th-century count called Vlad Tepes, otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler - after his favorite form of execution. Vlad was a prince from the area of Transylvania, now modern-day Romania. Born in 1423, he was the second son of Vlad Dracul - Dracul being ancient Romanian for dragon, and Dracula - meaning son of the Dragon. He ruled in an area that divided the Christian and Muslim worlds which saw many bloody battles as a result. The Count was responsible for the massacre of tens of thousands of Turks during his reign and was known throughout the lands for his ruthless and cruel punishment of his enemies.

It is fabled that in the 15th century, the Hungarian King Matthias, conspiring with the Turks, betrayed Vlad Tepes, capturing and imprisoning him within the tunnels that lie beneath Buda Castle. It is unknown what happened to the Count in his years of confinement, but when he was finally released from the depths of Castle Hill, he became known as Vlad the Impaler. The name arose after the Count invited hundreds of rival families to gather for a banquet upon his return from imprisonment, only to have them all impaled on spikes while he dined amongst his skewered guests. It is said that his body may lie within the labyrinth walls, separated from his head for good measure.

Aside from Dracula, many actual skeletons have been found within the labyrinth dating back to the Ottoman times and are believed to belong to the women of the harem. It is thought that when the Ottomans were conquered by the Christians in 1684, they threw the women into the wells of the labyrinth so as not to be taken by the invaders.

The Hospital in the Rocks

Another fascinating site that lies beneath Buda Castle is the Hospital in the Rocks. The hospital was built in the 1930s and served as an emergency air raid facility during World War II and the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. It was later adapted to include a nuclear and chemical war bunker during the communist era when the threat of nuclear conflict was ever-present. Today, it operates as a museum, welcoming the public for guided tours. This museum’s mission is to honor the real heroes of war, exemplifying the brave people who chose to help and heal others in times of conflict and dictatorship.

The hospital consisted of three wards and an operating theatre situated within the natural cave system under Castle Hill. It was manned by Hungarian doctors and nurses who treated both injured soldiers as well as civilians in need of care. During the siege of 1944-45, the hospital was at full capacity with patients often crammed three to a bed and filling the caverns and tunnels of the surrounding cave systems. The dedicated doctors and nurses of the Hospital in the Rocks were responsible for saving thousands of lives but despite the team’s best efforts, the death rate remained high due to the lack of basic medical supplies.

Top Tips

Getting to Castle Hill

Castle Hill can be reached on foot easily or by car if you are getting there by taxi. There is also a funicular railway if you don’t like walking uphill.

The Funicular is open from 8am to 10pm daily and runs every 5-10 minutes, taking a few minutes to reach the top of Castle Hill.

The Castle Hill area is a compact area that has a lot to see, you can just walk around and admire the sights or enter the various buildings, galleries, and museums on offer. There are also a variety of walking tours available, as well as a ghost and vampire night-time tour.

The Labyrinth

Open daily from 10am to 7pm. Payment by cash at the door to enter the labyrinth for a self-guided tour which takes approximately 30 minutes. For a more authentic experience, after 6pm, the lights are turned off and visitors can explore the tunnels via the light of an oil lamp.

Hospital in the Rocks

Open daily 10am to 7pm by guided tours only. Booking online in advance is recommended as the museum only takes 25 people at a time.

Tours last 60 minutes and are in English or Hungarian.

Buda Castle, Budapest